The people of Uttarakhand absolutely cherish the fact of decking up in oversized jewellery. From Nathuli to Guliband, Maang Tikka to Bulaq, you will mostly find Garhwali and Kumaoni women bejewelled in these elaborate pieces of jewellery. This massive jewellery acts as an emblem of social and financial standing with gold being the epitome representation of wealth. One of the prime features of Garhwali jewellery design is, that the artisans tend to overlay designs with brass for conserving the metals. What makes Garhwali and Kumaoni jewellery stand out is the seamless inclusion of the captivating flora and fauna of the state of Uttarakhand. Despite the rising demand for contemporary jewellery, women of Uttarakhand still cherish their traditional pieces.
Jewellery-making of Uttarakhand follows distinguished approaches to develop some of the most fascinating pieces. These pieces are created by craftsmen who have prolonged experience in creating these traditional jewellery pieces. This blog will throw light on how Garhwali jewellery is actually made.
Garhwali Nath
The Garhwali Nathuli, a traditional nose ring worn by women in Uttarakhand's Garhwal area, exemplifies the craftsmanship of generations of Garhwali artisans. The Nathuli is made of gold or silver and undergoes a rigorous procedure that begins with moulding. Thin sheets of metal are delicately hand-cut into intricate shapes, frequently depicting floral or geometric themes with cultural significance. These ideas are then passed over to expert craftspeople, who use time-tested processes to bring the metal to life. Delicate filigree work, completed with small wires and tiny tools, adds subtle features and enhances the beauty of the Nathuli. Stones such as rubies, emeralds, and pearls are then expertly placed using skills passed down through generations.
Each stone is meticulously selected for its colour and symbolism, adding another layer of significance to the Nathuli. The next stage is to polish the Nathuli to a brilliant finish, creating a piece that embodies both cultural tradition and beautiful craftsmanship. The Garhwali Nath is more than just an ornament; it represents tradition, beauty, and the ongoing history of Garhwali creativity.
Garhwali Bulaq
Bulaq is an exceptional piece of Uttarakhand jewellery that thoroughly represents its culture and tradition. This intricate nose ornament is worn in the septum of the nose. It is long, delicately made with precious metal gold, comprises divergent motifs, and is mostly noticed among the women of Jaunsari, Garhwali, and Kumaoni. You will find some gracefully carried out hand-crafted motifs throughout the piece. Another feature to note about Bulaq is, it is generally gifted by the bride’s family.
Garhwali Pahunchi
Pahunchi is a beautiful bracelet-like jewellery piece of Uttarakhand that is designed with weighty chunks of gold and is quite celebrated among women. This is an auspicious piece of jewellery for married women and is mostly noticed during festivals and family functions. This piece is mostly made in 1 tola or ? troy ounce. It is made with red cloth as base material, studded with gold beads or silver beads. One thing to note is, that the greater the amount of gold in a Pahunchi, the greater the financial status of the family.
Garhwali Hansuli
The Garhwali Hansuli, also known as Khagwali, is a handcrafted masterpiece. Skilled craftspeople start by moulding silver or gold into a stiff band around the neck. The band is then delicately decorated using numerous ways. The filigree technique, which involves weaving fine silver threads into elaborate designs, is a common characteristic. Alternatively, the Hansuli can be embellished with hand-carved designs or vibrant gemstones such as rubies and emeralds. The final process is to polish the Hansuli to a sparkling finish, resulting in a gorgeous piece of jewellery that represents the Garhwal region's rich cultural past.
Garhwali Galobandh or Guliband
The Garhwali Galobandh, a marriage sign for Garhwali women, is a stunning example of traditional gold artistry. It has a crimson fabric base (shanel) wrapped around the neck, which acts as a comfortable canvas for the artistic exhibition of gold work. Skilled artisans carefully arrange and stitch square-shaped gold bits into the fabric with thread. The elaborate design varies based on the craftsperson's talent and the history of the family heirloom, but it usually includes geometric designs or floral themes. These motifs may have cultural significance or simply enhance the piece's beauty. Modern versions may use gold plating or other metals such as brass or copper to make the piece more affordable while preserving its ageless charm.
Battulaal Jewellers' painstaking artistry takes Garhwali jewellery to the level of art. Inherited talents are passed down through the years, ensuring that each piece reflects the master artisans' knowledge and enthusiasm. They use time-tested techniques such as hand-worked gold and delicate filigree work to bring ancient designs to life. From delicately stitching delicate gold squares onto the red fabric foundation of a Galobandh to creating exquisite floral patterns on earrings, every detail demonstrates their passion. This dedication to conserving traditional traditions, combined with the artists' expert hands, is what distinguishes Battulaal's Garhwali jewellery.